The Berlin exhibition of Madame Gres' historic designs is a testament to the enduring legacy of a Parisian haute couture icon. This collection, one of the largest outside Paris, showcases the designer's signature sculptural draping and innovative asymmetrical gowns, offering a glimpse into the past that feels surprisingly relevant today.
Madame Alix Gres, a celebrated couturière of the last century, dressed the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco, Greta Grabo, Marlene Dietrich, and Jacqueline Kennedy. Her work, primarily in haute couture, is characterized by a unique approach to fabric manipulation and an asymmetrical silhouette that has influenced generations of designers.
The exhibition, titled 'Many Shades of Gres', is on display at Berlin's Kulturforum building until October 11th. It features 25 outfits from the Museum of Applied Arts (KGM) in Berlin, offering a comprehensive view of Gres' work. The collection includes a diverse range of garments, from hoop skirts and bustle dresses to the iconic designs of the 20th century's best-known designers, including Schiaparelli, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Balmain, and, of course, Madame Gres.
The KGM acquired the Gres silhouettes from various sources, including a collection of around 1,500 fashion objects and historical costumes from Swiss collectors Martin Kamer and Wolfgang Ruf. The provenance of these pieces is carefully traced, with some coming from private individuals in New York, while others were acquired at an auction in Paris in 1993, held by Gres' daughter, who sold off a significant portion of the company's archive.
What makes this exhibition particularly fascinating is the collaboration between the KGM and students from Berlin's University of Applied Sciences. Over three semesters, students from various disciplines, including communications designers, game designers, clothing technologists, and museologists, worked on projects inspired by Madame Gres. These projects are now on display, showcasing the designer's influence in contemporary contexts.
One of the most intriguing pieces is a garment that began as a simple athletic jacket but evolved into a draped, gathered, oversized nylon coat, inspired by Gres' innovative fabric manipulation techniques. Another highlight is a virtual exhibition space that visitors can navigate using an Xbox controller, offering a unique and immersive experience.
The exhibition is a testament to the timeless nature of Gres' designs. As Katrin Lindemann, the museum's curator for fashion and textiles, notes, 'The fact that [these objects] are being brought back to life in this way is simply wonderful. They are such amazing pieces, and above all, incredibly timeless.'
This exhibition is a must-see for fashion enthusiasts, offering a unique opportunity to appreciate the work of a legendary designer whose influence continues to shape the industry. It serves as a reminder that the fashion world is a dynamic and ever-evolving art form, with designers like Madame Gres leaving an indelible mark on its history.
